TECHNICAL SUMMIT

Climb Illiniza Sur

Ecuador's technical ice classic.

0.6647° S, 78.7147° W — 5,248 M
Certified Guides1:2 Guide Ratio AvailableWe Own Our EquipmentFree Summit Photography
SUMMITS 5000M

Climb Illiniza SurGuided expedition · Ecuador

Climb Illiniza Sur, at 5,248 m the higher, glaciated twin of the Illinizas and one of Ecuador's finest technical summits. This guided Illiniza Sur climb by PEAKS tackles steep ice and mixed terrain and is a genuine step up in difficulty from the country's walk-up glaciers.

We share the same approach as Illiniza Norte, overnighting at the Nuevos Horizontes refuge (4,700 m), then make an alpine start onto the glacier. Expect steep ice, mixed sections and real route-finding, all led by certified national mountain guides at a 1:2 ratio with our own high-end equipment.

Illiniza Sur suits climbers with solid crampon and ice-axe experience who want a technical challenge. It is an excellent objective for those training toward harder alpine routes and a proud complement to a multi-summit program in Ecuador.

The details

Expedition facts

5,248 m / 17,218 ft
Altitude
0.6647° S, 78.7147° W
Coordinates
2 days / 1N
Duration
AD (alpine) · Technical
Grade
6–9 hrs technical climb
Daily activity
December–January & June–September (driest, most stable)
Season
Meeting point
Riobamba (pickup)
Starting from
Enquire for prices

Solid experience on crampons and ice axe, comfort on steep ice and mixed ground, and good acclimatisation. This is a technical climb; the pre-climb briefing is mandatory.

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The plan

Itinerary2 days / 1 night

Day 01
Day 02
Transparency

What's included

Included

  • Certified national mountain guides (1:2 ratio available)
  • Hotel pickup and transport from Riobamba
  • Refuge accommodation (Nuevos Horizontes)
  • Hot drinks and hydration on the mountain
  • Technical briefing and rope work
  • Summit photography
  • Pre-climb acclimatisation and training support

Not included

  • Technical gear rental (ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, boots) — available from Peaks
  • Personal clothing (3-layer system)
  • Meals not specified in the itinerary
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Optional tips
Good to know

FAQ

Is the summit guaranteed?
No. This is a summit attempt on technical terrain and depends on ice and weather conditions; safety comes first.
How does it compare to Cotopaxi?
Illiniza Sur is markedly more technical, with steep ice and mixed sections, so previous glacier and ice experience is important.
What is the guide-to-client ratio?
We guide at up to 1:2 on Illiniza Sur for safety on the technical terrain.
How do I book and what does it cost?
Prices are quoted on request. Enquire on WhatsApp and confirm with a non-refundable deposit.
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